6 fragrances from Guerlain's granddaughter - Patricia Nicolaï

Founder of the French brand of niche perfumery Parfums de Nicolaï is Patricia Nicolaï, granddaughter of Jean-Paul Guerlain and great-granddaughter of Pierre Guerlain. She was born in Paris, studied at the Higher International Institute of Perfumes, and then became the first woman in history to receive the highest award from the French Perfumery Community. In 1989, Patricia, together with her husband, created the brand Parfums de Nicolaï.
Not so long ago I wrote about a fragrance for rainy autumn days - Vanille Tonka from Parfums de Nicolaï, along with a full bottle of which I got samplers of other perfumes of this brand. And today I would like to talk about 6 different fragrances from Parfums de Nicolaï: Vie de chateau - with tobacco and hay, Odalisque - with lily of the valley, Mimosaique - with mimosa, Balkis - with raspberry jam Eau d'Ete - with grapefruit and jasmine, L'eau mixte - with mint and bergamot.

1. Vie de Chateau - Life in the castle

Description from the manufacturer (from Nicolaï's official website): Pastoral notes are revealed by the smell of oak moss, freshly cut grass and haystacks. Created in 1992.
Aroma Composition:
Top notes are grapefruit, fern, grass and green notes.
Heart notes - Vetiver, Tobacco and Hay
Base notes are Musk, Patchouli, Oak Moss and Leather
My impressions of the fragrance:
all photos -
Life in the castle ... Walls erected in the Middle Ages, covered with moss and ivy, hay collected in stacks on vast expanses of huge possessions, a burning fireplace and an heir who survived to this day, who cannot be seen in a high armchair unfurled to the fire - and only smoke from it cigars slowly and lazily fill a huge hall with sweet fog ...
This fragrance impresses and captivates with its unusual beauty. Sweet, dizzying, alluring and mesmerizing tobacco. Cigar, beautiful, rich, saturating all the space around with its heady smoke. Of all the patricia fragrances I tested, Vie de Chateau seemed the most unusual and interesting (in the company of Vanille Tonka). He envelops the skin with velvet caressing beauty, doping consciousness. There is something so attractive in it that it makes you, time after time, poke your nose into the perfumed place again and again and eagerly draw in the air with your nostrils. This is probably a magical mixture of oak moss, leather and patchouli, which are clearly audible around tobacco.
Estimated price: 100 ml - 124 euros
Decision: I will take a full bottle. If tobacco of "another manufacturer" does not lure me. I choose between them now.

2. Odalisque - Concubine of the Sultan

Description from the manufacturer (from Nicolaï's official website): Lily of the valley, Jasmine, Iris root and Oak moss - for bright individuals ... Created in 1989.
Aroma Composition:
Top notes are bergamot, tangerine and citruses.
Heart notes - Lily of the valley, Jasmine, Iris root and Oak moss
Base note is Musk.
My impressions of the fragrance:
photo -
Deprived of tenderness, a lily of the valley struggling through the thickets of moss and drowning in a musky cloud. On my skin, this fragrance is perceived as too harsh, rough, overloaded with components. The downside is that it does not have a beautiful disclosure. Smoky as the dust of a country road. Absolutely devoid of any eastern allusions. The smell is very strange and not suitable for such an intriguing name.
Luca Turin: calls Odalisque "fresh chypre" and gives her 5 stars! This is a rarity!
Estimated price: 100 ml - 99 euros
Decision: If I want the monoaroma of lily of the valley, then I'd rather opt for Lilly of the Valley Panhaligon's.

3. Mimosaique - The scent of mimosa

Description from the manufacturer: A classic feminine fragrance, belongs to the green floral family. Sunny, spring, summer and romantic perfume. Created in 1992.
Aroma composition: Jasmine, Mimosa, Green notes, Anise and Iris root.
My impressions of the fragrance:
The first chord is a bright and unusual combination of notes of mimosa and jasmine for perfumery, in which they sound on an equal footing. At the same time, jasmine gives sweetness to the spring-simple smell of mimosa. While mimosa itself adds sourness to jasmine. It turns out a sour-sweetish sound - unbanal and very interesting, not like anything. After some time, through the mimosa-jasmine theme, the melody of the iris root breaks through - dusty and deep, giving the aroma strength and volume. The aroma begins to vibrate: then the simplicity of mimosa comes to the fore, then it is swept away by the richness of jasmine, then iris defeats them. I liked it, and I was already aiming for a full-fledged bottle, but my husband came up, sniffed and asked: “Have you bought a new air freshener?” ... That's how Mimosaique is ambiguously perceived.
Estimated price: 100 ml - 86 euros
Decision: Thanks in part to my husband’s comment, I’m unlikely to get the full version of the fragrance.

4. Balkis - Queen of Sheba

Description from the manufacturer: Belongs to the group of floral fruit flavors. Sweet. It was released in 2003.
Aroma Composition: Iris, Benzoin, Vanilla, Rose, Coffee, Pepper and Raspberry
My impressions of the fragrance:
photo -
Raspberry Blast! Thick and viscous raspberry jam with rose petals, candied from vintage. Iris root and pepper give the aroma astringency and bitterness. The aroma seems cloying and ancient due to the plexus of raspberries, roses, vanilla and benzoin. I can’t highlight the notes of coffee. Saturated, hot, thick, viscous, powerful, with a touch of bitter retro. Murderous raspberries solo throughout the entire sound. It reminds me very much of Hot Couture Givenchy, which I don't like. Perhaps that is why I did not like Balkis, despite all my love for gourmet, sweet, rich and oriental. It seems too straightforward and rustic from this. Durability is average.
Estimated price: 100 ml - 99 euros
Decision: Probably, he may very much like it. But I do not like such a straightforward raspberry, and therefore I do not want a full bottle.

5. Eau d'Ete - Summer Water

Description from the manufacturer (from Nicolaï's official website): Lime, Grapefruit and Jasmine ... Created in 1997.
Aroma composition:
Top notes are grapefruit, lime, orange and citruses.
Heart notes - Jasmine, Cinnamon and Floral notes
Base notes - Musk and Benzoin
My impressions of the fragrance:
The invigorating, bitter plexus of grapefruit and jasmine from the very first chords makes us think that this fragrance is a true unisex. Cheerful and laughing splashing citrus. Most clearly felt is their zest - lemon, orange and grapefruit - it is here soloing in all its might. The subtle floral notes are designed to slightly soften this freshly squeezed riot. I don’t feel cinnamon and benzoin, but I think that they give the aroma warmth and depth. Musk spreads over the skin. The smell is rich and pleasant, but nothing more. It seems ordinary, if not banal, and does not stand out. Without using it for several days, it is already impossible to remember the aroma.
Estimated price: 100 ml - 68 euros
Decision: I did not like. Yes, and resistance is practically absent. Of the citrus variations, I'd better take something from Aqua di Parma or Carthusia.

6. L'Eau Mixte - Cocktail

Description from the manufacturer (from Nicolaï's official website): Energetic top notes of bergamot and calabrian lemon, enhanced with mint and grapefruit. Rose and jasmine, added to rare spices, make this fragrance elegant and luxurious. The long-sounding notes of vetiver, oak moss and musk crown this new creation. Created in 2010.
Aroma Composition:
Top notes are Grapefruit, Italian Bergamot, Calabria Lemon, Mint and Blackcurrant Leaf
Heart notes: Jasmine, Rose and Spices
Base notes are Musk, Oak Moss and Vetiver.
My impressions of the fragrance:
Funny mint with bergamot. It seems very similar to Parfumerie Generale's Harmaatan Noir (PG11), only Patricia's aroma is much warmer and velvety than PG's cold mint. Some time later, it feels like a mixture of rose oil and jasmine begins to give sourness. But bergamot and peppermint sound a vibrant backdrop throughout the play. The notes of grapefruit zest are clearly audible, but I could not find the black currant. The aroma did not affect any secret notes inside and was practically not remembered.
Estimated price: 100 ml - 86 euros
Decision: There was enough probe.
As a result, I continue to like the most Vanille Tonka and Vie de Chateau. It also seemed to me that in all Parfums de Nicolai fragrances there is a vintage spirit and the obligatory characteristic is saturation - the perfumes seem to be different, but they are all very similar in manner of performance. And no matter how much Patricia says that she creates something radically different from the products of the Guerlain family, the traditions of this family name are still felt in her aromas. From her compositions I want to try more Sacrebleu, Kiss Me Tender and Fig Tea - and I’ll probably dwell on this in the “study” of Parfums de Nicolai. If someone already tried them, I will be glad to reviews and impressions.